The trip

Record of my adventures / food diary
Covering gap year travels and my year abroad in Mexico!
....And now also providing procrastination from my internship

Saturday 21 September 2013

5 Days in Baja California Sur

First things, for those of you who don't know Baja California is the peninsula bit of Mexico on the pacific coast. Cause most people's first assumption seems to be it's in the states, guessing from the california part!
We left last Friday and came back the following weds night. I went with 2 of the guys from my house (Xavier and Charly), Charlene (Charly's girlfriend) and Louise (Charlene's flatmate). Cause I booked my flight later than them I had a later one heading out, although turned out to be the better flight as I paid the same but mine was direct and there's was indirect. So although I left like 6 hours after them I only arrived 1 hour later in La Paz!
Things did not get off to the best start as we'd gone out to one the exchange houses the night before for someone' birthday. The others had left around 3.30 to get their taxi to the airport and I came home around 5 as I got a call from the guys saying Charly forgot his driving licence (we were renting a car and he was the main driver) so their taxi driver was going to post the keys to Charly's room through the door after dropping them at the airport. Also, had to find one of my other flatmates to ask what a French driving license looked like as is not a card like ours, its a little pink booklet! So having also not yet packed I set my alarm for 9am so I could get a taxi around 11 to head to the airport.
Anyways, imagine my panic when I wake up all nicely rested only to discover it's 10.30, I haven't packed, I haven't booked a taxi, I have to find Charly's driving license and I'm supposed to be leaving in 30 mins! I wasted maybe 15mins running around like a headless chicken trying to find the number for the taxi. It then took another 5mins on the phone to get them to understand my pronunciation of our address. I'm thinking it must have been terrible as even when I spelt it she got it wrong! Due to very short notice the earliest a taxi could come was 11.20, which suited me as actually gave me time to pack my bag!
If you've ever travelled with me before you'll know I'm not exactly the most efficient packer, and this was no exception. I seemed to feel the need to fill my big rucksack even though I used the same one to travel for 5 months so there's no way I needed that much stuff. However, given the time restraints, everything I found went in the bag!
By some miracle made it to the airport with all the important things (passport, money, etc) and even had a whole 15 mins to check-in! ;) The plane was really comfy so I had myself a nice little nap on the way over to try and catch up on some sleep.
Arrived in La Paz, not quite accurate to say airport as they're currently re-doing it so not really much there at all! Was early so through with my bags and all by given arrival time. As I had Charlys driving license they'd had to wait for me to sort out the hire car.
The picture online of the car and the reality were very different. The description had said a car for 5 people with space for 3/4 suitcases. What we received was a car that barely fit 5 people and only just 5 rucksacks!
Having the car though was awesome as gave us so much more freedom.
Wasn't long into La Paz and we found our hotel pretty easily, although had a bit of an awkward moment where we thought we were lost and stopped at some crossroads to ask the car next to us if they knew where our hotel was... it was literally opposite where we were stopped in clear view.
In the room, went to take out my ipad only to discover it wasn't there! Commence panic. I remebered having it at the start of the flight and had put it in my bag, and hadn't opened it again until the hotel, so the only thing could think of was it had somehow fallen out on the plane. Went to a nearby travel agent to try and get the number for the interjet (airline i'd flown with) counter at the airport. He couldn't find any contact number for anyone at the airport and told me there was no point going back to airport as there wouldn't be anyone there! Anyways, with the only number I could find I was on hold for over half an hour on 4 different occasions for the rest of the afternoon before I gave up. Decided to give it one last go late in the evening just before they closed and finally managed to get hold of someone, only to be told I needed to call a different office that wouldn't be open until the morning! Great. Anyways, an already long story short this process was somewhat repeated the next day being told i needed different offices each time until I finally got hold of the right person who told me he'd contacted both airports (one i came from and went to) and nothing :( Sad times for the iPad
Whilst I did feel kinda sorry for myself for the rest of the holiday we had an awesome time so was easy to take my mind of it!
On the friday we sorted our tour for the next day and then went and chilled on the beach, although didn't go in the water as was kinda dirty! Found an awesome seafront place for dinner, and having eaten next to nothing all day, ordered myself a giant pizza for dinner :) Food really makes everything better!

Day 1: Saturday we got up early as we had to be at the company's office at 9 for the tour. Was an all-day trip around La Isla Espiritu. Takes about an hour or so to get there on the boat but the views are amazing and we had unbelieveable weather all-day. The water there was incredible - really clear. One of the stops was at a tiny island full of seals and you could go snorkelling with the seals! We spent around an hour and a half there. There was also tons of different fishes and the seals would come and swim along with you. Me and Charly both have GoPro's so were having a field day! Unfortunately at one point when a seal came and swam around me for like 2 mins, what I thought was a video turned out to be just a photo! Oopsy, luckily Charly got a really cool video of the seals.
For lunch we stopped at a different beach on the island with the lightest and clearest water ever. We had a packed lunch included which was homemade ceviche and some kind of other fish salad type thing, both of which were really good. In the afternoon we continued around the island and stopped at another spot to do some more snorkelling. Again there were so many different fish and things to look at. Finally it was time to come back, so I had a nice nap on the way (a recurring event!).
We were back by 5 so headed to a beach about 30mins away. Was still tired so had another nice nap on the beach whilst the others chilled and the guys went on some jetskis.
Again found a very nice place for dinner and watched the boxing game. Was a mexican guy vs an american so was on every tv in every restaurant! The mexican guy was ginger and pale, couldn't have looked less mexican if he tried!

Day 2: Headed off early in the morning to Todos Santos, about an hour or so away. We stopped for petrol on our way out of the city, where we saw a whole bunch of police cars filling up. About 10 minutes later we see flashing lights behind us and are pulled over by the police truck that had been filling up next to us and had followed us from the petrol station. Asked to see Charly's license and then informs us we were speeding! (not true) so we have the following conversation
-So what speed were we going?
-Ahh, umm around 85
-Ah ok, what's the speed limit?
- It's err 80
Next he tells us it's going to be a US$200 fine!?
-Yeah, we don't have any dollars
-Ok, then US$100
-Still no dollars!
-Right you can pay in pesos then
Quick consultation in the car
-We only have MX$197 (less than £10)
-Ok that's fine
And off they go!? Blatantly only followed us because they heard us speaking in the petrol station!
Did a little car tour around Todos Santos when we arrived and then checked out some of the beaches before stopping at this random roadside restaurant that was called 'El pescadero' (meaning fishmonger). Naturally we weren't expecting it to be a fast food joint run by this old american couple. Greeted by the blond haired, heavily accented wife who did not have the greatest spanish and was very happy to switch to english. After talking to her it turned out they'd been living in Baja for 22 years but only opened there campervan restaurant 2 weeks ago! Kinda odd but the burgers were good although a little small so had a grilled cheese to follow up!
In the afternoon we headed to Los Cerritos a surf colony to rent some boards. Spent the whole afternoon there after haggling down the price of our boards. Probablt spent at least 3 hours in the water trying to teach myself how to surf. Never been happer than the first time I stood up, unfortunately it only happened 3 times during the afternoon. Mostly I fell off as soon as I got up or didn't even reach that far. I also had a succession of pretty impressive wipeouts where I just faceplanted before being crushed by the waves! Knackered by the end of it but again another awesome day :)
After the beach we headed down to Cabo San Lucas on the south coast where we had our accomodation booked for the next two nights. Weirdly (probably due to it being low season), the cheapest option we had found was a suite in a golf resort! Took us quite a while to find it as everyone in town told us they'd never heard of it and we couldn't reach them on their phone number! Was starting to worry wasn't a real place when we managed to access internet and get a map, then they finally answered the phone and helped with directions. The reason we kept missing it was it was up a long drive with no marked sigh (aparently it got knocked over a few weeks ago and they just havent got round to fixing it!) Was totally worth the search though. We pulled up to check-in (with it's own mini roundabout) and right behind it were the two pools connected by a small waterfall slide, and off to one side the giant jacuzzi. Our suite was insane aswell - we had two large bedrooms and bathrooms. Each bed was probably big enough to fit 5 people on it! And then we had an open area living room / kitchen with a nice little terrace outside! Did kinda debate leaving the resort at all!!
Monday was independence day here (hence the long weekend holiday) so on Sunday night they have this thing called 'el grito' where in every city the mayor/president says 'el grito' ending with 'Viva Mexico' 3 times, waves the flag, i think they then sing the national anthem and then there's usually fireworks and stuff. Anyways, it happens at 11pm, but since La Paz is one hour behind we watched it the one in Mexico D.F on tv before heading into town to see the local one. Unfortunately upon our arrival it turned out it actually happens at 11pm D.F time all across the country. So in our case we had missed it by an hour! Woopsy
Went to find food where discovered the genius of Burger King's walk-up! I'm sure this exists elsewhere but having never seen it before very much enjoyed

Day 3: Spent a few hours in the morning at the hotel pool before heading down to the beach where you can do a tour of a nearby island in a 'glass bottom boat' (the glass bottom bit was a tiny section in the middle of an otherwise ordinary boat), island is very small and has some cool rock formation creating an arch and on the other side of the island is the pacific. Also, there's the point where the sea meets the ocean, tbh it looked no different to all the water around it but apparently it's worth seeing!? As very small island only took 40 mins to see (and that was mostly due to the exceptionally slow speed of the boat). We had opted to do some snorkelling around the island so got dropped off. The local guys on the island who were in charge of sorting boats to return etc, agreed to look after our stuff for a small tip, plus one for his friend of course. In reality it seemed more like a bribe to not steal our stuff!
When we opened the bag with all the snorkelling stuff turned out they'd forgotten to put one set in and 2 of the flippers there were the wrong sizes! 10 mexican minutes late (30) they returned with the missing stuff. The snorkelling was again really cool due to the masses of fishes and the really clear water.
Back on mainland, had lunch at a nearby little place. We had fish and prawn tacos (almost all the fish we ate here was 'dorado' (mahi mahi) still not really sure what that is, but it sure tastes awesome! ;)
Then off to a different beach for a few hours to chill before heading back to the hotel via walmart to pick up some food for dinner. Had a very nice roast and then spent the rest of the evening trying to find somewhere to stay the next night further up the coast.

Day 4: Another early start to check-out and head to the next place. Our search for accomodation somewhat hampered by the lack of internet in the hotel that morning but luckily worked for long enough for me to get the number of a BnB nearby to where we wanted to be.
Tried to find the centro historico de San Jose del Cabo, but failed. Nobody we asked could direct us there and when we said about the old historic church a woman pointed to a garish bright purple church nearby!
Failing that we decided to look for a viewpoint and then head to Cabo Pulmo up the coast. A couple hours, several dirt roads and a warning about our tiny car we looped back to San Jose to take the highway instead having been told our little car would probably not survive the journey on the smaller roads! We followed it until the town where we were staying. Our BnB was a very nice little out of the way place.
The plan originally had been to head to Los Barriles (nearby) to see about kitesurfing (for Xavier). Unfortunately it turned out the season didn't start as yet and cause locals don't do it, there was nowhere to rent equipment. Instead spent the rest of the day at a beach before heading back early to the BnB, going out for dinner (more Mahi Mahi), then playing cards in our room.

Day 5: Last day so again up early. As you may or not know, Mexico was hit by a tropical storm earlier this week. Fortunately it hit south of where we were, but was heading our way so we woke to severe rain and a suggestion from the owner that we head off within an hour before the roads flooded and our little car got stuck! We had a few moments of worry when we reached some patches of water we were sure were too deep for the little car, but it pulled through and we made it to the highway. I say highway cause that's what it's called, but there are only the two lanes - one in each direction. We had another near miss on the way when we were driving through the mountains and there was a small rockslide just as we came round a corner. Thankfully Xavier slammed on the breaks quickly enough as one of the rocks that fell onto the road was pretty big and would have done some serious damage to the car!
Another hour north to La Paz and it was clear blue sky again and perfect weather!
As we were coming into La Paz, Xav didn't notice a red light and we went through it right next to a police car! Couldn't really argue this one as was an actual offence! But as with everything here, it was a negotiable fee. It started at MX$1300 (£65) before us finally paying MX$300 (£15), of course no paperwork or anything as signed as that would make it official and they'd have to give the money in!
We had a few hours until our flight so headed back to the same area of beaches we'd been to on Sat, though this time went to a different one. It was incredible, you could walk from one side of the bay to the other in the sea, it was so shallow! Took us an hour to get across and come back by which time unfortunately it was time to head back to the airport.
We tried to clear the car out of sand before we gave it back but it was useless without a vacuum. All good though and they took the car no problems. Whilst we were at the airport I thought I may as well try one last vain hope to check for my iPad. So I found someone from interjet and asked them about it, but they said they were busy and to check again in 30mins. In the mean time we went to check-in for our flight. After as we were sorting our bags the interjet lady came back to me and told me she had my iPad!!!!! I thought at first I must have misunderstood as I thought no way after 5 days it was for sure lost. But no, they had had it since friday when they found it on the plane. Couldn't believe it when I saw it and it was mine, did a small victory dance in the middle of check-in at which point I think the rest of my travel companions realised I was safe to approach. Apparently they found it straight away and had just put it into lost property. So don't know what the guy I spoke to on the phone was talking about when he said he'd contacted everyone and checked?!
Anyways, couldn't have been happier and was the perfect end to a pretty perfect holiday!

Pictures and videos to follow in a separate post as this one's already so long!!

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